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Outline History of Glenbrook
District
By
II. A. McLEOD MORGAN
(Hon. Treasurer of Royal
Australian Historical
Society)
I This is a further installment
of «the address under this title
given by Mr. McLeod Morgan
at a meeting held by Glenbrook
C.W.A. in Glenbrook School of
Arts on April 4. Last week's
instalment dealt with the
original road (Cox's Road) over
the Mountains.]
About the year 1824, an alter
nate road was built as a means
of avoiding Cox's fearsome
ascent of Lapstone Hill. To-day.
the alternate looks about as
ficrce a.s Cox's original road must
have been.
The 1824 road is the route
reached by crossing the Western
Railway at Emu Plains Station,
and proceeding west on the
north side of the line, and zig
zagging to the top of the first
ridge to rejoin Cox's Road at the
site of the old "Pilgrim Inn,"
close to the present Blaxland
Station.
Just before looking at the his
tory of this inn, we might spare
a glance at two more writers who
travelled the road westward after
its 1824 improvement.
Rene Primvere Lesson, wrote
on January 1, 1824: "The road
rises in a gentle, easy slope, and
is well marked as far as Spring
wood."
An anonymous letter written
in 1824. stated: "The first ascent
of the Blue Mountains by this
new Lapstone Hill is excellent.
It would be perfectly practicable
to take over, as I said before, a
train of 24 pounders."
We should now take a glance
at the "Pilgrim Inn," stated by
some to be the first inn on the
Blue Mountains, and much has
been written on the subject. For
our purpose, the quotation of a
breezy page from "Inns of Aus
tralia" by Paul McGuire. should
be enough to outline its early
days:
"Lapstone Hill was a whole
day's pull for bullock waggons.
The Pilgrim Inn at its top was a
welcome sight to man and beast.
Ryan holds that it was the
first inn of the Mountains, built
by William Williams, who was
killed there bv a bullock (his
brother was killed bv a musket
ball glancing from the horn of
another bullock). But we think
that Williams' house was The
Lord Byron, which seems to have
switched names at some time
with The Pilgrim, and thus
raised a furor academicus which
has raged amongst the learned,
Venturing our heads, we pro
pose that The Pilgrim was built
by the livelv Barnett Levy, who
in 1826 sold his estate (Mount
7,ion. with its brook Kedron and
Valley of Jehosaphat) here, and
its house of twelve rooms, 'ad
vantageously situated for an inn',
end let at £100.
Mrs. Hawkins (travelling to
Bnthur.st with her seven child
ren. mother, and husband) in
1822 halted at a Pilcrim. About
1830, it fathered Ted Evans, who
lonscored for N.S.W. against
Lill.vwhite's English team, and
took 5 wickets for 94 runs.
John Outrim Wascoe had It
from 1835-38, and in 1852 he ac
quired The Lord Byron (which
we think made way in 1912 for
Blaxland Railway Station exten
sions), and perhaps temporarily
swapped the titles to confound
historians. He certainly held a
Pilgrim in the 'forties and 'fifties,
when all the district was popu
larly known as 'Wascoe's'.
Sir Frederick Pottinger, the
baronet turned policeman, met
his end at The Pilgrim in 'C3,
when his pistol expoded. He was
en route to Sydney to explain his
conduct of the campaign against
the Ben Hall Gnng. In his fas
cinating "Wild Colonial Boys,"
Frank Clune suggests suicide.
But accident seems more likely.
Returning to the anonymous
letter writer of 1824. he had this
to say of Emu Plains: "Emu
Plains seems the very place for
a town, and it is wonderful for
what reason its eligibility should
have been so long neglected. In
a picturesque and fertile valley
of 8 or 10 thousand acres, the
succulency of whose soil would
produce anything and everything,
with a ncfale river running
through the midst, and at a con
venient distance from Sydney
and Parrnmntta—the town of
Emu, with its church and snire,
it.s courthouse and its smithy,
with a happy and ruddy peasan
try for milc.s around will soon. I
hope, succced to these miserable
stacks of wheat. The conveni
ence of a poet-township at Emu
would be very great to the whole
of the neighbouring country, but
especially to the Bathurst set
tlers and those individuals now
I'.ving in the mountains, and
with a resident .stipendiary
magistrate, mayor, landrost, pro
vost, ov whatever might be his
title, and a running post, which
is the best in thinly peopled
countries, the character and evil
associations so long connected
with Emu would soon be lost,
and the town become one of the
most important in the Colony.
"We now rode on for Sprinp
wood, and had an unpleasant
ride the lpst six or seven miles
in the dark, the road not being
here so good, many stumps be
ing left standing in the middle
on which my tired horse made
freouent, stumble. From Sydney
to Sprlngwood in one day is no
.ioke. to one not accustomed to
the saddle."
MITCHELL ARRIVES
About the year 1827, there ar
rived in Australia Major Mit
chell destined to become Sir
Thomas Livingston Mitchell, one
cf the greatest Survcyors
Cieneral and pioneers Australia
has ever known. With indefatig
able energy and demand for al
most "push button" efficiency
from his subordinates, he set to
work bringing survey data and
road routing up-to-date. He
tackled the hazardous and weari
somn Bathurst Road, and Mit
chell's Pass with the Lennox
Bridge, known to most Austra
lians. even those with only a
rudimentary knowledge of our
fascinating history. Mitchell
also by-passed the dreaded Cox's
route (with subsequent devi
ations bv Lawson and Lockyer)
down Mt. York, by forging his
pass at Mount Victoria, still used
to this day.
On the eastern side of the
Mountains, Mitchell chose a
route, and the 1824 road. Instead
of going "bull at a gate" straight
at a slope (this was considered
the be.st for the typical long line
of bullock teams'), as had the
two earlier roads in the vicinity
of the present Blaxland. How
ever, there was a difficult cross
gullv to be negotiated, and Mit
chell's progressive ideas favoured
something better than the old
style wooden bridge, subject to
the ravages of time, posts, and
Are. For this he must have a
competent stone-mason used to
such work.
The storv goes that he found
David William Lennox working
on a wall in Macquarie Street,
and asked him to come to the
survey office.
Thus Lennox's historic career
as the "Bridge Builder". In addi
tion to the famous Horseshoe
Bridge not far from here, he
built the Lansdowne Bridge near
Liverpool, still in use. one at Par
ramatta, the first Prince's Bridge
in Melbourne, as well as others.
With 20 selected men. he be
gan the arch in Mitchell's Pass
in 1832 and had it finished by
July, 1833. To get praise from
Mitchell was a compliment in
deed, and he said of the bridge:
"—a somewhat experimental
work, which Mr. Lennox execut
ed extremely well." So well,
that, like his Lansdowne Bridge,
it still carries traffic 125 years
later!
Born at Ayr, in Scotland, Len
nox arrived in Australia on the
"Florentia," August 11, 1832, so
that Mitchell had siezed on him
very promptly. Lennox died at
his home in Campbell Street,
Parramatta on 12th November,
1873, at the age of 85.
Now that the Mitchell Pass
had been opened, lot us look at
n few more writings of westward
journeys. In 1835, James Back
house,' who walked the colony
with his friend George Washing
ton Walker, both members of
the Society of Friends, wrote:
"Alter breakfast at a respect
able inn, we proceeded (o the
station of the Stockade of the
Ironecl-gang on Emu Plains. The
huts in which they are lodged
are but temporary structures,
nnd the gang, which was large,
Is now reduced to seventy. The
superintendent, a young man
from Inverness-shire, accompan
ied us to the gang, with whom
we had a religious interview.
They have been employed In cut
ting a new road up Lapstone Hill
the ascent of the Blue Moun
tains, and are now completing it
with a bridge, , across a deep
gully," ',
Charles Darwin, the famous
naturalist, wrote in 1836: "Jan
uary 17. Early this morning we
passed the Nepean in a ferry
boat. The river, although at this
spot both broad and deep, had
a very small body of running
water. Having crossed a low
piece of land on the opposite side
we reached the slope of the Blue
Mountains. The ascent is not
steep, the road having been cut
with much earn on the side of a
sandstone cliff."
(To be continued)